GETTING TO KNOW IÑAKI OCHOA DE OLZA
IÑAKI OCHOA DE OLZA
ALPINIST FROM NAVARRE
Iñaki had a grand plan in mind that he couldn’t execute. It was a humanitarian project that ran parallel to a sporting one, with the purpose of raising funds for the children of the Himalayas. SOS Himalaya was born to preserve and spread the memory of Iñaki and the achievement of this great project
Iñaki and the unfathomable void
Iñaki Ochoa de Olza is a massive void in the lives of those who loved him, myself included, of course. Charisma, unlike the ability to climb mountains, cannot be trained. It is innate, period. Iñaki was a beacon and possessed the strange gift that accompanies individuals with an attractive personality: it was always enjoyable to chat with him, to meet up for skiing, climbing, or running in the mountains. In his company, conversations were always brilliant, sprinkled with thousands of anecdotes derived from a long journey in the Himalayas that granted him the fortune of knowing the best climbers of the time. Everyone remembers Iñaki in the leggings gifted by Carsolio, or with the down jacket from some other star. That’s why it felt strange to see him in new clothes, a gift from his sponsor: ‘I have so many boxes of unopened clothes at home that I don’t know what to do with them,’ he laughed at himself, aware of how hard it was for him to secure sponsorship… which he didn’t even desire. His laughter was an explosion, a shockwave that immediately infected the atmosphere. I still have his contact in the phonebook of my mobile, as if only deleting it would also erase all the memories… or the yearning for one last conversation. Sometimes, even knowing that this telephone number now belongs to someone else, I feel like pressing it and seeing who answers. He might answer himself, scolding me with a ‘it took you a while to call, dude.’
I no longer know very well what it means to be a great mountaineer, or Himalayan, or climber, but I do know how to recognize those who love the mountains viscerally. In Iñaki’s house kitchen in Pamplona, I stared fixedly at a calendar on the wall, with all the dates crossed out and small hieroglyphic notes. ‘What is this?’ I asked. ‘These are the days I train, I mark them with a cross.’ Not a single day was left unmarked. That day, I understood that Iñaki respected himself much more than he let on, that his passion and his will to do it right were much more powerful than one could imagine. His vast knowledge of the history of mountaineering, its routes, heroes, and anti-heroes also provided clues about a passion to which he dedicated himself as if there were no tomorrow. Sometimes, I wondered how he made a living. Only one thing could distract Iñaki: women. In this complicated aspect, he was a master, and now I understand that he wasn’t just a simple collector but someone willing to live many lives in one, giving a lot in return… except his freedom. When he wasn’t singing a verse drawn by Barricada, he spoke with enormous affection and admiration for his parents and siblings, without falling into sentimentality but making it clear that they were his emotional support. From the void left by Iñaki’s departure, an admirable foundation has grown: SOS Himalaya. It’s the art of giving just because. And it helps to know that Iñaki’s family and friends have unearthed shovels to fill an unfathomable hole by creating smiles.
Oscar Gogorza
Writer, journalist and friend
GALLERY
EIGHT-THOUSANDERS ASCENSIONS
The summit of Cho Oyu on September 20, 1993, marked Iñaki’s first conquest of an eight-thousander. The expedition included Eugenio and Santi Gorrotxategi, Belén Eguzkiza, and Juanjo Zuazua.
On September 28, 1995, Iñaki successfully reached the central summit of Shisha Pangma. It took him less than 24 hours from leaving the base camp.
On July 10, 1996, Iñaki reached the summit of Gasherbrum I or Hidden Peak via the Japanese couloir alongside Juan Tomás, in an expedition with members of the military school of Jaca.
Just 19 days after reaching the summit of Gasherbrum I, Iñaki managed to ascend Gasherbrum II, accomplishing this feat following the normal route with José Carlos Tamayo.
On April 21, 1999, Iñaki reached the summit of Lhotse solo. Through the normal route, he achieved this in just 22 and a half hours from leaving the base camp.
On May 24, 2001, Iñaki stood on the roof of the world, Everest, as a guide for an expedition and with the use of supplemental oxygen. He completed it via the southeast ridge.
On September 21, 2001, Iñaki reached the summit of Cho Oyu once again via the normal route. It would be the second time he ascended this eight-thousander, something he would achieve on a third occasion.
On June 20, 2003, Iñaki completed the summit of Nanga Parbat via the Kinshofer route. He reached the highest point with the Austrian climber Gerlinde Kaltenbrunner.
On July 15, 2003, almost a month after achieving the previous eight-thousander, Iñaki summited Broad Peak alongside Simone Moro, overcoming a vertical gain of 1,600 meters in less than 15 hours.
On May 16, 2004, Iñaki successfully ascended Makalu in just 9 hours and 40 minutes from the last camp, at 7,600 meters. The expedition included Ricardo Valencia and Alex Txikon.
On July 28, 2004, Iñaki reached the summit of K2 in just 6 hours and 35 minutes from the Shoulder Camp, at 7,950 meters, passing through the Abruzzi Spur.
On September 28, 2004, Iñaki concluded a magnificent season with his third eight-thousander in a year. He ascended Cho Oyu via the normal route, taking 11 hours and 16 minutes from the base.
On April 29, 2006, Iñaki, along with his friend Jorge Egocheaga, reached the top of Manaslu, taking only 28 hours from the base camp to the summit.
On October 3, 2006, Iñaki reached the main summit of Shisha Pangma. He opened a solo variant from 7,440 meters, called the new Lorpen-Diario de Navarra route.
Again, with his friend Jorge Egocheaga, on April 26, 2007, Iñaki achieved his last eight-thousander, Dhaulagiri, taking 29 hours from the base camp to the summit.
RESCUE ATTEMPT ON ANNAPURNA
IÑAKI'S FRIENDS
-Companion on dozens of expeditions.
-Assisted Iñaki in his rescue attempt on Annapurna.
-Companion on dozens of expeditions.
-Continues to collaborate with Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza-SOS Himalaya.
-Companion on dozens of expeditions.
-Continues to collaborate with Fundación Iñaki Ochoa de Olza-SOS Himalaya.